SKKK & Sandur Lambani Embroidery
During the late 1970’s and early 1980’s Sandur Kushala Kala Kendra engaged with twelve women from the Lambani community from Susheelanagar’s thanda which came together to form a working group. This small step marked the beginning of a transformative journey, not just for the Lambanis but also for other traditional artisans in and around Sandur. Today, SKKK works with over 500 craftspeople in Ballari, Vijaynagar and Sandur region.
Sandur Kendra was the idea and great vision of HH Shri. Susheela Devi Ghorpade, wife of HH Shri. Y.R Ghorpade. This vision and legacy was carried forward by their daughter in law, Smt. Vasundhara Raje Ghorpade, wife of Shri. M.Y.Ghorpade. In continuation of the legacy and under the leadership of the President of SKKK Shri Suryaprabha Ghorpade wife of Shri. Ajay Ghorpade SKKK continues to grow and innovate and nurture craft and its artisans.
The formation of SKKK was more than just a gathering of artisans, it was a catalyst for empowerment and transformation. For the Lambani women, who are historically recognized for their intricate embroidery and vibrant textile traditions, this initiative offered an opportunity to harness their skills collectively, gain economic independence, and preserve their cultural legacy. What began as a small-scale effort soon rippled outward, touching the lives of other traditional craftspeople in and around Sandur.
Evolution of the Lambani art & craft
Within the heart of Lambani culture, where reverence for nature intertwines with the vibrant threads of local traditions, blossoms a legacy of exquisite craftsmanship. The nomadic spirit, woven into their history, nurtured a profound resourcefulness in Lambani women, transforming humble remnants into breathtaking works of art. Maybe as a result of their itinerant lifestyle and limited possessions, Lambani women became experts in creating marvels out of bits and pieces. Using thread pulled from old saris, they sewed small pieces of cloth together to create beautiful clothing, accessories and household items.
Threads, delicately coaxed from the silken remnants of worn saris, became the medium for their artistry, forming the foundation for garments, adornments, and domestic treasures. These were embellished with embroidery, decorative borders, mirrors, shells and coins whispered tales of their nomadic journeys, ancient rituals, and the deep hues of their ancestral landscapes. Designs, motifs and colours were inspired by images from their nomadic lifestyle and their folk traditions and rituals. These meticulously crafted heirlooms, destined for a bride's trousseau, were not merely objects, but tangible embodiments of love, tradition, and the enduring spirit of the Lambani people, their creation begun with the dawn of a daughter's life.
Stitches
Step into a world where indigenous stitches which transform cloth into cultural masterpieces, showcasing the enduring beauty of Lambani craftsmanship.
These are the indigenous stitches, passed down through generations, that form the heart of Lambani embroidery. During the creation of various designs and motifs, SKKK and its artisans use these set of stitches for its creation. This section will explore the diverse repertoire of indigenous stitches employed by the Lambani people. An examination of the indigenous stitches utilized by the Lambani artisans reveals a sophisticated understanding of textile manipulation and decorative design.
These indigenous stitches, born from tradition and creativity, are the living language of Lambani artistry.
- Vele
- Bakya
- Potte Dora Maaki
- Sonia Taang
- Bakya Choot Bhuriya
- Bakya Nakra
- Ado Dora
- Bakya Maaki
- MM Halli Maaki
- Bakya Buriya
- Bakya Potte
- Javalya
- Bakya Suryakaanthi Maaki
- Potte
- Angli Vele
- 3 Sui R Maaki
- Phooli
- Katal relo
- Choop Javalya
- Soodh Angli
- Gadri Vele
- Kalyani
- Relo
- 7 Dhora
- Soodh
- 4 Dora Kukdi Taang
- 3 Dora
- Vegro
- Ther Dora
- Alli
- Kanche (Bandero)
- Punda (Bandero)
- Dora (Bandero)
- Keelan : Cheed Keelan and Saangan Keelan
- Kanche Design’s (Mirror Motifs)
Embellishments
- Rope/ Dori making in cotton thread.
- Vegro stitches with bottom linings with different number of line threads.
- Ornamenting and finishing of complicated stitches like Maaki, Potte, Godrey etc. in different places and corners of the product replicas ( duplicate).
- Independent making of Kalchi, Kothli, Batwa and Chandia prototypes ( in small samples sizes).
- Shells (Kavade’s) fixing to the products.
Dressing pattern of Lambani women
The Lambani women are immediately recognizable by their distinctive attire, characterized by vibrant colors, intricate mirrorwork and embroidery, and unique hairstyling and ornamentation. These elements are influenced by a confluence of factors, including material availability and their rich historical and cultural heritage.
Typically, Lambani women wear the 'Phetiya,' 'Langa,' or 'Lahanga,' a long, voluminous skirt secured at the waist, reaching just above the ankles. This garment, crafted from a robust, thick fabric featuring a striking blue base with red stripes, is fastened with a 'patti' or belt. Notably, the 'langa' is adorned with a lengthy, embellished lace incorporating cloth and 'koudi' (shells), a portion of which is tied at the waist, while the remainder cascades freely. The skirt's surface is replete with mirrors and elaborate embroidery, which, according to Lambani tradition, serve to deter forest animals during foraging expeditions.
The 'Kanchali,' a bodice worn over the chest, is fashioned from a thick, red fabric. It features a stitched front and an open back, secured with laces.
The 'Chantiya' or 'Odani,' a head and back covering, completes the ensemble.
The prevalence of red in Lambani women's attire is rooted in a historical narrative. Legend recounts that during the reign of Shahabuddin Ghori, a Lambani king, Chandambardi, defeated Ghori in battle. In retaliation, Ghori's kin ordered a massacre of the Lambani people. Fleeing into the forest, the Lambani concealed their garments in the earth. Upon retrieval, the fabric had acquired a reddish hue. This transformation solidified the color's significance, symbolizing their survival and becoming an integral part of their traditional dress.
In contrast, Lambani men typically wear simple white 'dothi' and shirts. On ceremonial occasions, such as weddings and festivals, they adorn themselves with a 'pagadi' (head roll)."
Ornaments
Lambani women adorn themselves with a diverse array of ornaments, crafted from materials including gold, silver, steel, brass, ivory, copper, and threads.
- 'Chodi' – A substantial bangle, typically made of ivory, corn, or plastic, worn on the forearm.
- 'Joodo' – A bangle similar in design to the 'chodi,' but worn on the upper arm or shoulder.
- 'Kasotya' – An ornamental piece, fashioned from silk thread or silver, designed to be suspended from the shoulders.
- 'Murucu' or 'Magathi' – A gold nose ornament.
- 'Chotla' – A silver ornament designed to secure a portion of the hair and hang alongside the ears.
Lambani communities History
The Lambani, also known as the Banjara, are a significant tribal group with a widespread presence across Karnataka, Maharashtra, Rajasthan, and Andhra Pradesh. Until the late 20th century, they maintained a nomadic or semi-nomadic lifestyle. The group is recognized by various regional names, including Banjari, Boipari, Sagali, Sukali, Vanjani, and Labana. Scholarly accounts of their origin and history suggest that the Lambani people originated in Sindh and subsequently migrated to Marwar, Rajasthan, before dispersing throughout India. However, the genetic origins of the Lambani remain a subject of debate, with scholars proposing both Aryan and Dravidian ancestries.
‘Thanda’ a village
A 'Thanda' represents a distinct form of clustered settlement, specifically associated with the Banjara community. Functionally equivalent to a hamlet, it is characterized by a relatively small population, typically numbering in the hundreds, and is predominantly situated within rural, often tribal, regions. Historically, thandas were marked by temporary dwellings, reflecting the transient lifestyle of the Banjara people. However, contemporary thandas increasingly exhibit characteristics of permanent settlements with fixed residences. The defining feature of a thanda remains its concentrated layout, contrasting with the dispersed pattern of settlement found in other rural contexts.
The Lambani's nomadic heritage led to the formation of 'Thandas,' homogeneous settlements designed to house both people and their cattle. The advent of Indian Railways and road transport disrupted their traditional livelihood, prompting a shift towards agriculture. Due to their historical connection to forests, they settled in these areas, retaining their group living arrangements. Their nomadic disposition naturally resulted in settlements located on the periphery of main villages, providing ample space for livestock and customary practices. The Thandas established outside central villages have now in many villages become an integral parts of the villages.
Lambani Language
The Bellary District Gazetteer classifies the Lambani language as an Indo-Aryan dialect known as Banjara. Scholarly consensus generally acknowledges the Lambani possess their own distinct language, primarily oral. The origin of this language is attributed to 'Goorboli,' signifying the language spoken by the Lambani. This spoken dialect is rooted in Rajasthan and has been subject to linguistic influences from various sources, including Gujarati, Hindi, Punjabi, Marathi, Kannada, Telugu, and Sanskrit.
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